銀座いなり探訪 – GINZA OFFICIAL

銀座いなり探訪 – GINZA OFFICIAL https://www.ginza.jp/en 銀座公式ウェブサイト。お店やイベントの情報、バリアフリーやWifiの案内など、銀座情報発信サイト。銀座の歴史や銀座に縁のある人の記事も掲載。 Mon, 15 Dec 2025 02:43:23 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.1.9 Visit Ginza’s Inari Shrines: Final Edition https://www.ginza.jp/en/visit-shrines/28908 Thu, 01 Aug 2024 01:00:57 +0000 https://www.ginza.jp/?post_type=visit_shrines&p=28908 Continue reading →]]>

Uino

Ogikubo san, we have visited many corners of Ginza together, but this will be our final episode. I certainly enjoyed our strolls and there was always much to learn. I am truly grateful to the various shrines and everyone who received us. I hope we were of some help to our readers.

Ogikubo

So, it is already our final edition. I would like to thank everyone who have joined us in our strolls. Personally, it was an enriching experience for me, accompanied by Uino san. When I explore a town, I usually look at old maps and try to discover small pieces of history remaining there. I had always been curious about how Inari Shrines could be found in the smallest corners even in a town like Ginza, where the land prices are so high and the buildings are built closely together with no space between them. In our series, we tried to create as many opportunities as possible to talk directly with the people who are taking care of the shrines and there was so much to learn.

Uino

We were able to reacknowledge that Ginza is supported by the involvement many different people. It is fascinating that so many shrines exist within walking distance across Ginza 1-chome to 8-chome.

Ogikubo

The Inari deity for business prosperity and fire protection is indispensable in a commercial town. Hence, we could feel a strong will and creative efforts to preserve the shrines for local businesses. Although each shrine is small, we would always encounter a visitor who presumably works in Ginza on our visits.

あづま稲荷へ参拝に向かう人々 — Visitors walking toward Azuma Inari Shrine.

Uino: They are places for everyday wishes. Visiting the shrines are almost like a customary practice that has been passed down from ancestors.
Ogikubo: I was also very happy to be able to see those shrines which are usually closed to the public.
Uino: Not only in Japan, but throughout the world, I think it is rare to see so many places of prayer in such a small busy area. I wish more foreign visitors could be exposed to this aspect of Ginza, in addition to the shopping it offers. Ginza holds a stamp rally that takes visitors around the different deities scattered across Ginza. As I mentioned in the series, some of the shrines are open to the public only during the event.
Ogikubo: Since this is our last edition, I mapped out all the shrines we visited on one map. I thought it would be good to have a map to allow us to walk through Ginza to visit the shrines one by one. By the way, was there some kind of logic to the sequence of the shrines we introduced?

「銀座いなり探訪」で訪問した神社の地図。これだけの神社や不動尊、地蔵尊を訪問しました。 — Map of shrines visited in “Visit Ginza’s Inari Shrines”
A number of shrines, Fudo Moyoo and Jizo Bosatsu were visited.

Uino: They were basically in the order of the Japanese alphabet.
Ogikubo: So that is why we went from one place to another.
Uino: Therefore, in our last edition, I would like to find the ideal walking route for visiting various shrines in a time-efficient manner.
Ogikubo: Then let us start in Ginza 1-chome and work our way to 8-chome. Ginza is located between Kyobashi and Shinbashi, so let us start in Kyobashi.
Uino: Our first stop is Saiwai Inari（https://www.ginza.jp/visit-shrines/18550）. A building was constructed in the redevelopment of the area, but the shrine was saved in a corner of a narrow backstreet.
Ogikubo: It used to face Namiki-dori, didn’t it? Our next stop is very close by. Ginza Inari Shrine（https://www.ginza.jp/visit-shrines/17409） sits on the rooftop of Echigoya Building in Ginza 2-chome. It used to sit behind the building but was moved to the rooftop of Echigoya Building. Since it sits in very limited space, it is closed to the public.
Uino: The deity comes out to an Otabisho (temporary resting point) in the entrance of the building during the stamp rally event.
Ogikubo: Where shall we go next?
Uino: I would like to recommend Yasuhira Shrine.
Ogikubo: Then let us cross Ginza-dori, cross Showa-dori, and walk toward Tsukiji. Yasuhira Shrine sits in a corner of the premises of a high-story condominium.（https://www.ginza.jp/visit-shrines/28194)
Uino: The shrine was originally worshiped as the guardian god of Manyasuro, but today, it forms a beautiful part of the residence, with its original decorative stones kept in the landscape.
Ogikubo: Since we have come to former Kobikicho, let us stroll through Kobikicho. If we walk from Yasuhira Shrine in the southeast direction on Kobikicho-dori, we will arrive in front of Hoju Inari Shrine（https://www.ginza.jp/visit-shrines/24338）. Hoju Inari Shrine is a spectacular shrine facing the main street. When I recently came by, the building next door had just been demolished and the land had be cleared, so I have a very good view of the main building of the shrine.

隣のビルが取り壊されて社殿の形がよく見えた宝珠稲荷（2024年7月撮影） — An open view of the main building of Hoju Inari Shrine after the adjacent building was demolished (photo taken in July 2024)

Uino: Hoju Inari is located in a very popular area. Kabuki Inari Shrine is very close by too. Visitors will have a chance to take a picture in front of the beautiful façade of Kabukiza Theater.
Ogikubo: It is sitting in a corner of Kabukiza Tower（https://www.ginza.jp/visit-shrines/17084）. If you are a little tired, you can take a rest in Kobikicho Hiroba on the basement floor if you are a little tired. Where shall we go next?
Uino: Let us walk along Harumi-dori to Ginza Mitsukoshi. On the rooftop of the Main Building sit Shusse Jizoson and Mimeguri Shrine.（https://www.ginza.jp/visit-shrines/19524） I recall that you found the Shusse Jizo already marked on a map from 1911 (Meiji 44). I also found a passage on a festival for the Shusse Jizo along with a picture in a book published from Shirakawa Shoin called “Ginza no Shijo (Poetic sentiments of Ginza)”.
Ogikubo: So, it was already called Shusse Jizoson during the Meiji period. It is marked where the Annex Building of Ginza Mitsukoshi stands today, so it is understandable that it was moved to the rooftop of Ginza Mitsukoshi Main Building when the Annex was newly constructed.
Uino: A number of shrines are concentrated in this area. The Ryuko Fudoson(https://www.ginza.jp/visit-shrines/25078）on the rooftop of Matsuya Ginz and Asahi Inari（https://www.ginza.jp/visit-shrines/15283）, and Hodo Inari Shrine（https://www.ginza.jp/visit-shrines/26279）in Ginza 4-chome are all located close by so they can be visited as you like, in between shopping and coffee.
Ogikubo: At Asahi Inari Shrine, you can visit the Main Shrine when the elevators are in operation. I would certainly recommend visitors to go up to the roof. You will have to go up a flight of stairs after getting off the elevator.
Uino: Now that we have arrived in the center of Ginza, lets wrap up the first half of our tour, the “Kyobashi Route”.
Ogikubo: Let us begin the latter half of our tour. Since we are starting at the Ginza 4-chome intersection and heading toward Shimbashi, let us call it the “Shimbashi Route.”
Uino: Let us go. Our first stop is Azuma Inari Shrine（https://www.ginza.jp/visit-shrines/16633）. It is located on Azuma-dori, the street behind Ginza-dori.
Ogikubo: If you continue straight ahead, you can walk through GINZA SIX to the other side. You can feel the will of the local people to maintain the town layout from the fact that they left a passage that runs through GINZA SIX. On the rooftop of GINZA SIX, you can visit Kakugo Inari Shrine（https://www.ginza.jp/visit-shrines/16195）the guardian god of Matsuya Ginza. Let us take the elevator up to the rooftop. From Azuma Inari, the elevator on the southern side should be closest.
Uino: Once you are on the rooftop of GINZA SIX, you should take a stroll around to look out in all four directions.
Ogikubo: Our next stop is Kumagai Inari Shrine（https://www.ginza.jp/visit-shrines/17900）in Ginza 6-chome. This shrine sits on the other side of Sanjikken River, so it’s address would be in Kobikicho. It is easy to spot as its Torii Gate faces Hanatasubaki-dori.
Uino: From here, we should walk westward along Hanatsubaki-dori to Toyoiwa Inari Shrine（https://www.ginza.jp/visit-shrines/27210） located behind Shiseido Main Office. Please be careful not to miss it as it sits in the back of a very narrow street It actually has two entrances, so let’s see if you can find them.

ビルとビルの間を抜けた奥に鎮座する豊岩稲荷 — Toyoiwa Inari Shrine sitting in the back of a path between two buildings

Ogikubo: I was surprised to learn that there were so many Inari Shrines across Ginza 7-chime and 8-chome. Komparu Inari Shrine（https://www.ginza.jp/visit-shrines/20369）at Shimbashi Kaikan and Mankin Ryujin Seiko Inari Shrine（https://www.ginza.jp/visit-shrines/21553）at Shiseido Main Office building are both located on the rooftop of the respective buildings and are thus closed to the public.
Uino: Mankin Ryujin Seiko Inari Shrine can be visited on the first floor of Shiseido Main Office building during the stamp rally event. Komparu Inari Shrine can also be visited at a Otabisho (temporary resting point) from August 1 during the Nohgaku Komparu Matsuri festival.
Ogikubo: Now our fina destination is Hachikan Shrine.（https://www.ginza.jp/visit-shrines/22548） Now that we look back, we have visited quite a number of shrines.
Uino: I am sure that anyone who goes around all of the shrines will become a fan of each deity. Of course some may find a favorite.
The next time we come to Ginza, we can drop by a shrine close to our destination. Ogikubo san, what impressed you most exploring Inari Shrines in Ginza?
Ogikubo: Above all, I was impressed by how they have been so creative about the siting of the shrines. Ginza is Japan’s commercial center and has the most expensive land prices. The selection of the locations show how even in a high-end place like Ginza traditional deities can be preserved. Some shrines have been moved to the rooftop of a building, some are located in the back of a narrow street, and others are movable. Shrines established in commercial areas are originally for the local people and do not need to be facing the main street. That makes it all the more interesting.

「銀座いなり探訪」訪問神社のリスト。 — List of shrines visited in “Visit Ginza’s Inari Shrines”

Uino: I tried to introduce as many shrines as possible but there are shrines yet to be visited in Ginza. Whether or not they are open to the public, as a guardian, I would like to continue to protect these places of prayer from the turbulence of a changing world.
By the way, strolling in Ginza during our visits, many other aspects caught our eyes.
Ogikubo: Absolutely. My curiosity took me this way and that as we strolled the streets. I would sometimes to go out of my way to look at an old picturesque building that caught my eye.
Uino: How about exploring those buildings that you were so curious about in our next series?
Ogikubo: I would certainly be excited to join you. I had been thinking that one of Ginza’s charms is how buildings from before World War II stood side by side with new buildings built in the Reiwa period.
Uino: Then the title will be “Exploring Ginza’s Buildings”. I look forward to having our readers join us in our next adventure.

]]> Visit Ginza’s Inari Shrines Vol. 18 Yasuhira Shrine https://www.ginza.jp/en/visit-shrines/28194 Wed, 01 May 2024 01:00:10 +0000 https://www.ginza.jp/?post_type=visit_shrines&p=28194 Continue reading →]]>

Uino

We have visited many shrines. This time we will visit a shrine that I know little of and I had thought it would be difficult to introduce it in this series. Its name is Yasuhira Shrine.

Ogikubo

I also happened to passed by it. It is a very new shrine but there was no description of its history. What brought you to make this visit?

Uino

I had been thinking of wrapping up this series on Ginza’s Inari Shrines when a friend introduced me to the owner of the property that Yasuhira Jinja sits on. He is from the family who ran the restaurant that the shrine originally guarded. I was very fortunate to be able to contact him in this timely manner.

Ogikubo

Now that really sounds like the work of God.

Uino

Let us visit it first. This is an open area, or should I say shared space, of Ginza Tower, a high-story condominium. The greenery is beautiful.

銀座一丁目。安平神社はかつての木挽町一丁目エリアにある — Ginza 1-chome. Yasuhira Shrine is located in the former Kobikicho 1-chome area

Ogikubo: This is former Kobikicho, on the other side of Sanjikkenbori River. It has that unique atmosphere of a traditional area in Tokyo mixed with narrow streets with old houses and new high-story residential complexes.

銀座一丁目の安平神社。奥に見えるのがタワーマンション — Yasuhira Shrine in Ginza 1-chome. The high-story condominium can be seen in the back.

Ogikubo: The condominium looks very new. It says it was built in 2003.
Uino: Before it was built, there was a restaurant called Manyasuro.
Ogikubo: A few years before 2003 is very recent. I didn’t know of it since I do not come to this area very often.
Uino: Ogikubo san, it was more than 20 years ago. That is not so recent (laughs). What do you think was here before Manyasuro? It was the manor house of “Shinjo Mino-mori (Mihagi-mori)” a “hatamoto” (direct retainer of the Shogunate) with 1,000 goku

江戸切絵図にある「新庄美濃守」の屋敷。ここがのちの万安樓となった — Manor house of “Shinjo Mino-mori” marked on Edo Kirizu.
This later became Manyasuro.

Ogikubo: The Shinjo clan has a long history, and its ancestor was a vassal of the Asai family who was sought by Oda Nobunaga. This estate was a Hatamoto of a branch family, and it seems that he was a “Goshoin banto” (secretary and head of the guard of the shogunate), an important position in the Edo Shogunate.
宇井野: Yes, this shrine was originally its estate deity. When the land of the Shinjo family’s residence was purchased in the Meiji era (1868-1912), the garden was kept as it was and utilized as a garden for a ryotei (Japanese-style restaurant). When it was the Shinjo family’s estate, there was a hill in the garden where the shrine stood. Manyasuro succeeded the shrine, built a shrine and a torii gate, and arranged it so that weddings could be held there. The shrine was named Yasuhira Shrine. The original deity of the shrine was not and Inari deity. The Inari was enshrined during the Manyasuro ownership.
荻窪: The original deity seems to be unknown. It may have been the Shinjo clan’s clan deity. Anyway, that is how the Manyasuro garden and estate Inari came into being. When I consulted various documents about Manyasuro, I found that in the “Tokyo Suburban Tourist Guide” of 1902 (Meiji 45), it said, “the beauty and extent of the magnificent garden of the house is unparalleled” and in “Kyobashi Hanjoki” of 1912 (Taisho 1), it was commented that it was “a disgrace for anyone not to know Manyanro as a restaurant.” It seems that Manyasuro was a reputable ryotei restaurant famous for its spacious garden. It is remarkable that a sightseeing guide would write so. According to a map from 1911 (Meiji 44), it seems to have been located in the area marked by this square.

明治44年の京橋区の地図より。四角く囲った広い土地がまるまる万安樓だった — From a map of Kyobashi-ku in 1911 (Meiji 44).
The property marked in a squared was all the premises of Manyasuro

Uino: It is really spacious!
Ogikubo: What happened to Manyasuro?
Uino: They no longer run a restaurant, but their company, Manyasuro Co., Ltd. manages Ginza Tower. The land also still belongs to Manyasuro. When the tower was built, the owner had strong intensions to save the shrine and thus secured the adjacent land so that the shrine could be moved.
Ogikubo: That makes me want to know how the place looked when Manyasuro was still here.
Uino: Hence I have borrowed a picture from back then from Manyasuro san. This is Manyasuro in 1930 (Showa 5). The original building was damaged in the Great Kanto Earthquake and the shape of the property was altered in the plot development following, and they reconstructed their building. This is the new building.

昭和5年に建て替えられた万安樓の入口。すごく大きな料亭だったのがわかる。「万安樓御絵葉書」より — The entrance of Manyasuro rebuilt in 1930.
It was obviously a very large ryotei restaurant.
From “Manyasuro Postcards”

Ogikubo: It says “Onsen Ryotei”. One could take a bath and have dinner as well.
Uino: I was told that it was a ryotei restaurant where on could take a bath, enjoy the view of the garden and be entertained by Geisha. It was something like a “Super Sento” with a karaoke companion. It seems that you could book not only Geisha from Shintomicho but also Shimbashi Geisha.
Ogikubo: In the picture, it looks like Yasuhira Shrine stood on an artificial hill. There were foxes in front of the current main shrine as well. If you look at the foundation, it says “Showa 5”, so it must have been placed when Manyasuro was rebuilt after the earthquake.

安平神社の鍵をもつ狐。昭和5年のもの — A fox holding a key at Yasuhira Shrine. Built in 1930 (Showa 5).

Uino/dt>: I have a picture from back then, If you compare the fox and main shrine, you can see that they are the same.

万安樓時代の安平神社。築山の上に鳥居がある。「万安樓御絵葉書」より — Yasuhira Shrine in Manyasuro’s times. A Torii gate stands on an artificial hill.
From “Manyasuro Postcards”

昭和5年の社殿とお狐。これが今の安平神社にうけつがれている。「割烹万安樓の栞」より — The main shrine and fox in 1930.
This has been succeeded by the current Yasuhira Shrine.
From “Guide to Kappo Restaurant Manyasuro”

Ogikubo: This is a valuable photo. I can imagine the artificial hill beyond the garden lake where the deity was enshrined.
Uino: I wonder why they named it “Yasuhira”.
Ogikubo: Perhaps they took the “Yasu” from Manyasuro’s name. “In peace and tranquilty.” It is a good name.
Uino: The Shinjo family was a branch of the so-called “tozama (external)” family, but they held important positions in the Shogunate for generations, and later overcame the Meiji period. The present Manyasuro continues to maintain the Yasuhira Shrine in the midst of turbulent times. This shrine, just as its name suggests, must bring considerable blessings to those who wish to spend their lives in peace and tranquility.
Ogikubo: It is also impressive that they did not leave the estate deity, which was originally enshrined in the restaurant, locked up, but instead moved it outside so that anyone could come and visit the shrine. It was opened to the community as recently as 2003, and despite its location along a narrow alley, we saw about three people visiting the shrine in just a few minutes.

きれいに維持されている安平神社 — Yasuhira Shrine, beautifully kept.

Uino: We can see from the how the shrine is kept, that it is cared for by not only the landowner and condominium complex’s maintenance company but by the local people.
Ogikubo: If you look closely, you can see that the lantern and “tsukubai” washbasin, as well as the guardian dogs are from the times of the ryotei restaurant. There is a lot of history here.

料亭時代から使われている丸いつくばい — The round washbasin used from the times of the ryotei restaurant.

Uino: Many people visit the shrine on their daily comings and goings. Since this is the Kobiki-cho area, it is said that Teppozu Inari is in charge of Hatsuuma and other events. The atmosphere is quiet and elegant, but the deity may actually have the character of a chirpy Edo child.
Ogikubo: This time, I was fascinated to learn how an old shrine, originally an estate deity of a samurai residence during the Edo period and later a deity of a ryotei restaurant since the Meiji period, was opened to the public when the restaurant became a high-rise condominium complex, and quickly took root in the local community. I had not expected to have the opportunity to talk directly with people from Manyasuro and see photos from that time. There are so many things that are not obvious from just observing a town from the outside.
Uino: I wonder if the future will bring more new relationships and newly disclosed information. I look forward to these new developments. Town strolling can be enjoyed in so many ways.

]]> Visit Ginza’s Shrines Vol. 17 Toyoiwa Inari Shrine https://www.ginza.jp/en/visit-shrines/27210 Thu, 01 Feb 2024 04:40:52 +0000 https://www.ginza.jp/?post_type=visit_shrines&p=27210 Continue reading →]]>

銀座七丁目に鎮座する豊岩稲荷神社。資生堂パーラーの近くにある。 — Toyoiwa Inari Shrine in Ginza 7-chome

Uino: Ogikubo-san, were you aware of Toyoiwa Inari Shrine?
Ogikubo: Actually, I once passed by it in 2017 by chance. I was so surprised to find an Inari Shrine here, and took a picture of it, which I discovered on my iPhone.

豊岩稲荷初訪問時に、次はちゃんと参拝しようと撮っておいた写真。 — Picture taken on the last visit to Toyoiwa Inari Shrine
with the hope of paying a dedicated visit next time.

Uino: You are indeed a town walking expert. I am surprised that you already have a picture of it. Did you pay a visit, too?
Ogikubo: Unfortunately, it was already dark when I passed by. I am reluctant to visit a shrine for the first time at night. I did visit it a little time later. How about you?
Uino: Toyoiwa Inari happens to be the first Inari Shrine in Ginza that I became aware of and visited.
Ogikubo: It seems quite unusual that the first visit to an Inari Shrine would be to Toyoiwa-san when there are so many other Inari Shrines facing the street in Ginza. Did you come straight to Toyoiwa Inari?
Uino: The shrine was not my main destination. I was still a student then and I would only come to Ginza on my own occasionally to buy imported stationery at Sony Plaza. I had heard from my friend’s sister that there was an Inari Shrine that took care of women.
One day, I was having an exciting time shopping in Ginza when I recalled the story. Then it hit me that I needed to visit the shrine so that I could date the love of my life!
Ogikubo: How did it go?
Uino: To be honest, I was a bit terrified and shocked. I was not so familiar with shrines then and it felt so secretive. I remember putting my hands together feeling as if I had been bewitched by a fox. I guess it was not the place for a young boy collecting fancy stationery. I was not ready for shrines yet.
Ogikubo: Toyoiwa Inari sits in a unique location. You find it at the end of a small path in between two buildings. It does feel like a secret place. Anyone who comes here for the first time will surely wonder if they are allowed to walk through.
Uino: However, I think that is why it has the power to make wishes come true.
Ogikubo: When you look closely, there are two approaches to the shrine. One is from Hanatsubaki Dori. This may be easy for people shopping at Shiseido to find. The other approach is from Suzuran Dori. I wonder if this one is the main approach.

四角く囲ったところが参道。右側が花椿通り、左側が鈴らん通り。 — The approaches are enclosed in white squares.
Hanatsubaki Dori is on the right, and Suzuran Dori, on the left.

Uino: I believe so. Toyoiwa Inari’s front shrine is in the building facing Suzuran Dori and the shrine office is on the basement floor of this building.

豊岩稲荷神社の表参道。その横にある階段を降りると社務所がある。 — The main approach to Toyoiwa Inari Shrine.
The shrine office is located downstairs.

Ogikubo: This small Inari Shrine has an office?
Uino: Yes. This Inari Shrine has been here since the Edo period. It is therefore said that neither the shrine nor its office have moved since then

銀座七丁目は江戸時代は竹川町だった — Ginza 7-chome used to be Takekawa-cho during the Edo period.

Ogikubo: That is why the shrine pavilion looks like it is locked in the corner of the building.

ビルの間を入っていくと、豊岩稲荷神社の社殿がある。 — When one walks through the passage between the two buildings, Toyoiwa Inari Shrine can be found at the end.

ビルの一角だが、きちんと屋根もあり、神社の社殿としてデザインされているのがわかる。 — Although it is in the corner of the building,
it is built in the design of shrine architecture.

Uino: If you take a close look, you can see that a piece of shrine architecture with a roof has been integrated into the building.
Ogikubo: I see. There is a panel about its history on its side. It says that the shrine has been worshiped as a deity for fire prevention and romance. It was built by Yasuda Sakubei, a liegeman of Akechi Mitsuhide who fought in Honnoji-no-Hen. Inari Shrines are known to protect people from fire but it is very rare for them to be deities of love and romance.
Uino: Now let us visit the shrine office. Since the pavilion and office on the basement floor belong to the shrine, they allowed the construction of the building on condition that the shrine would not be moved.
Ogikubo: Looking from the outside, it looks like the office is located under the pavilion. It is impressive that that so many people come to get their pilgrimage stamp books stamped when the office is almost hidden downstairs.
Uino: It also sells good luck charms. People who purchase good luck charms here always look very satisfied. The colors and design of the charms are occasionally changed in accordance with the timing. It is a very thoughtful gesture that lets us feel their warm hospitality.
Ogikubo: It is quite impressive.
Uino: Toyoiwa Inari Shrine receives a lot of publicity. It is often introduced on TV as a shrine that helps the establishment of good relationships and ties, so it receives many visitors inspired by the TV coverage. It helps not only romantic relationships but also various ties; and therefore, people tell stories of family members recovering from sickness and of welcoming good employees.
Ogikubo: I see. So, many people are inspired to come here to get a good luck charm after seeing it on TV or in guidebooks. The fact that it is near Shiseido may also be the reason why there are so many female visitors.

このように参道を奥に入って参拝する人が引きも切らない。 — People constantly go in one after the other.

Uino: Today, I have special permission to visit the main shrine. Let us go.
Ogikubo: The lion head is enshrined here.
Uino: Around here, Namiyoke Inari Shrine also enshrines a lion head so perhaps the Shishimai was performed here as well.
Ogikubo: Having protected the community from so long ago, the shrine has a firm presence here, even if it is hidden in between buildings.
Uino: Since my first encounter with Toyoiwa Inari Shrine was quite shocking, I had imagined that it was a powerful and scary deity, but I learned today that it was indeed not.
It is more like the madam of a Japanese-style hotel who makes sure each visitor is happy based on her encompassing spirit and experience. Yet, she bears a sense of pride. This may be why we feel that we should come determined and most politely when we visit to make a wish.
Hospitality is not just about giving. As guardians of Ginza’s Inari Shrines we should all share this acknowledgement. I hope that based on this notion, Ginza will continue to be a town that builds good ties with those who visit.

]]> Visit Ginza’s Shrines Vol. 16 Hodo Inari Shrine https://www.ginza.jp/en/visit-shrines/26279 Wed, 01 Nov 2023 01:00:26 +0000 https://www.ginza.jp/?post_type=visit_shrines&p=26279 Continue reading →]]>

銀座4丁目の銀座レンガ通りと並木通りの間にある狭い路地に宝童稲荷は鎮座している。 — Hodo Inari Shrine sits facing a small narrow street
between Ginza Renga-dori and Namiki-dori.

Ogikubo: Today’s meeting point is quite unique.
Uino: Yes. Today, I had you come to Gojuon, a store in front of the Hojo Inari Shrine’s gate.
Now, allow me re-introduce myself. I run this store and at the same time take care of Hodo Inari in Ginza 4-chome as its “moribito,” or guardian. My relationship with the Hoji Inari was part of how the “Visit Ginza Shrines” series began.

「五十音」の中から撮影。真向かいに宝童稲荷が鎮座している。 — Taken from inside “Gojuon.”
The store faces the Hodo Inari Shrine.

Ogikubo: Is that so? I believe it was before I met you that I once had the opportunity of coming to this area before the current pavilion was built. I wandered in curious about what I would find on this narrow street. Then I found this small store, Gojuon. Although I was very curious about what it sold, I did not have the courage to come in at the time (laughs). I took pictures wondering what the empty square space in the corner of the building in front was going to turn into. The next time I came, I was surprised to find a shrine there.

銀座レンガ通りと並木通りの間にある狭い路地に入り込んだら、左手に五十音、右手に工事中の小さな空間があった。2008年9月撮影 — Walking into the narrow street between Ginza Renga-dori and Namiki-dori,
to the left stood Gojuon and to the right, a small open space under construction .
September 2008

ここに宝童稲荷の祠が建てられるのだった。2008年9月撮影。 — Here, Hodo Inari Shrine would be built. Photo taken in September 2008.

Uino: The reconstruction of the current pavilion began in November 2007 and the deity was moved to the new shrine on October 24, 2008.
Ogikubo: It has been well maintained and managed even amid the re-development of the area. A beautiful pavilion neatly kept with flower offerings, it looks like the shrine is being well taken care of unnoticed by tourists. But I had no idea that you were taking care of it.
Uino: Yes. It is a very interesting coincidence (laughs).
Ogikubo: When you started to look after the shrine, what did Hodo Inari Shrine look like?
Uino: I have a photo of the old shrine in my possession that I used in a book. We could walk up to the main pavilion by walking up three steps. However, the doors would be opened only during festivals, and it had a closed atmosphere. Now it is much more open and has a brighter atmosphere.
Ogikubo: Was it located in the same place where it sits now?
Uino: Yes, it was. I did find a record of it sitting in a different corner of the neighborhood before the Great Kanto Earthquake.
Ogikubo: So it was re-enshrined at its current location after the earthquake. Did the Inari Shrine exist from the Edo period?
Uino: Yes, Hodo Inari Shrine is said to be a branch shrine of the Inari Shrine of the Edo Palace. Back then, this area was called Yazaemon-cho. Some say that Yazaemon-san was a “soji-no-mono,” whose duty was to manage the palace gardens. That would explain how the deity of Hodo Inari Shrine could have been divided from the deity in the Edo Palace to be re-enshrined here. The Yaezaemon-cho district is said to have been established in 1628 (Kanei 5) to replace Yaesu Rogetsu-cho. Therefore, the Inari deity could have been divided from the Edo Palace around then, or perhaps earlier. Do you have any old maps that would tell the story?
Ogikubo: On the “Tsukiji Hacchobori Nihonbashi Minami Ezu” of the Edo Kiriezu, we can find a “Yazaemon-cho”. It seems to have stretched across both sides of Namiki-dori in Ginza 4-chome.

『〔江戸切絵図〕』築地八町堀日本橋南絵図（尾張屋清七,国立国会図書館デジタルコレクション）を加工 — adapted from “Edo Kiriezu: Tsukiji Hacchobori Nihonbashi Minami Ezu
(Orwariya Kiyoshichi, National Diet Libirary digital collection)

Ogikubo: It is interesting how many districts were named after the developer during the Edo period. By the way, Hodo is not a very common word. What does it mean?
Uino: Actually, the details of the origin of Hodo Inari Shrine’s name are unknown. But the original Inari deity was worshiped with wishes for the Shogun’s successors to grow up in health at the palace. Therefore, that may be the origin of its name, which means treasuring children
Ogikubo: I cannot find any other Inari Shrines or shrines with the name Hodo. Let me search for temples… There is a temple named Hoboin Temple in Tokyo. “Hobo” stands for a flag decorated with gems, so it could also be imagined that this name eventually evolved into Hodo.
Uino: Yazaemon-cho was home to many publishing houses in the Meiji period and beyond. Kitamura Togoku is also known to have lived in the area. Perhaps it has always been an area for people with a good taste in literature and hence the Inari Shrine was given its beautiful name.
Ogikubo: So, to summarize, the story goes that when Yazaemon-san became “nanushi” (administrator) of Yazaemon-cho, he invited the Inari deity from the Edo Palace to be divided and re-enshrined there, and now the shrine is guardian of Ginza 4-chome.
Uino: Ginza’s districts are divided into smaller areas, so to be precise, it guards the area around Namiki-dori in Ginza 4-chome. There is another reason for Hodo Inari Shrine’s close relationship with former Yazaemon-cho.
Ogikubo: I am curious.
Uino: The Inari Shrine is currently managed by the district association, which started as a group of local people who came together for the purpose of reconstructing the Inari Shrine which had been burnt down, and later evolved into a community organization.
Ogikubo: I see. It was an attempt to restore the town along with the shrine.
Uino: Yes, but the Hodo Inari Shrine is worshipped not only by the local people but also by people from all over Japan. This flag is evidence.
Ogikubo: What kind of flag is it?

宝童稲荷のきれいに染められた幟 — Beautifully dyed flags at Hodo Inari Shrine.

Uino: The flags are replaced once every year. Since this is a small Inari Shrine, the flags come in a mini size made by special order. The dedicators’ names are handwritten in vermillion to match the flag color. They write on the backside as well, so it looks like a work of shape-resist dyeing People from distant places make donations as well.
Ogikubo: I see. The bright atmosphere that I feel every time I come to visit may be because of the bright flags. And it is also good that although the shrine is located in a backstreet, there is a small guiding post on Ginza Renga-dori pointing to the shrine. I wonder why it is a chimpanzee, though…

銀座レンガ通りからはチンパンジーの案内通りにビルの間の狭い路地を抜けて参拝できます — From Ginza Renga-dori, one can follow the directions provided by a chimpanzee
to walk through a narrow street between buildings to visit the shrine.

Uino: This is a street art installation by the building. Therefore, it has no direct relationship with the Inari Shrine. The building owner has offered private land to be used as the approach to the shrine and the bronze statue was ordered to stand in a posture that pointed to the Inari shrine. Along with the angel at Teshodo, this is a popular photogenic spot in the area. Yet, since the approach itself is difficult to find, I am often told by visitors that they wished it had a one thousand torii gate approach. I hope the local district organization can make it happen someday out of their love for the Inari Shrine and for the elegance of Ginza.
Ogikubo: We have visited a diversity of Inari Shrines in Ginza and each of them had a unique way of preservation. Sometimes we would go up to the roof and other time,s we would go through narrow streets. Some shrines were portable. It is wonderful that land has been secured for Hodo Inari Shrine and that it even has an approach.
Uino: Yes, it is the result of the challenges overcome by our forerunners and the collective efforts of people who run businesses here in Ginza, people who work here, and people who live here, although that number has been on the decrease. The way that a district association is protecting the Inari Shrine from the troubled waters of contemporary times and the Inari Shrine has the power to bring such an association together to protect it shows a modern way of keeping a local Inari Shrine. As a guardian, I am determined to make every effort to make it a pleasant destination for visitors

参道を抜けるとあらわれる宝童稲荷。赤い鳥居と小さな幟が目印。 — The Hodo Inari Shrine appears when one walks through the approach.
The red torii gate and small flags mark the spot.

]]> Visit Ginza’ Inari Shrines Vol. 15 Ryuko Fudo-son https://www.ginza.jp/en/visit-shrines/25078 Tue, 01 Aug 2023 01:10:54 +0000 https://www.ginza.jp/?post_type=visit_shrines&p=25078 Continue reading →]]>

Uino

This is our destination this time.

外装がモダンな松屋銀座。2006年に全面完成した日本最大級のガラス面だそう。 — Matsuya Ginza’s modern façade.
It is one of the largest glass panels, completed in 2006.

Ogikubo: We are going to Matsuya Ginza in Ginza 3-chome. Then, are we going to an Inari shrine on the rooftop?
Uino: You are half right. We are indeed going to the rooftop of Matsuya Ginza, but it is not an Inari deity that sits there.
Ogikubo: That comes as a surprise. With Mimeguri Inari on the rooftop of Mitsukoshi department store, Kakugo Inari on the rooftop of GINZA SIX (formerly, Matsuzakaya), Fushimi Inari on Ikebukuro Seibu, Toyoko Inari on the rooftop of Tokyu Toyoko Store, which used to be above Shibuya Station until just a few years ago, and Toyokawa Inari on Shinjuku’s Odakyu Department Store, which only recently closed, I had thought that Inari shrines, representing commercial prosperity, on department store rooftops were the rule.
Uino: Yes, there seems to be a strong relationship between large merchants, such as department stores, and Inari shrines. Well, let us go inside.
Ogikubo: With its modern façade, Matsuya Ginza looks new, but the building itself is quite old.
Uino: My image of Matsuya Ginza is a design-conscious department store, and I had never thought of it as long-established. How long has it been in business?
Ogikubo: It opened in 1924 (Taisho 14). Matsuzakaya opened in 1923 (Taisho 13), so it was right after Matsuzakaya.
Uino: Today, the underpass to the metro station is decorated with design tiles. The retro-modern look is really beautiful.
Ogikubo: It is surprising that they have kept a part of the building completed in 1924. Here is a photo from back then.

昭和5年の「大東京写真帖」（国立国会図書館デジタルコレクションより）にある「松屋銀座」。今と同じ8階建。 — ”Matsuya Ginza” in the ”Dai-Tokyo Shashin-cho” published in 2030 (Showa 5)
(from the National Diet Library Digital Collection)
An 8-story building like today.

Uino: It was an eight-story building, just like today. Now that I look closely with that knowledge, I notice traces of history here and there.
Ogikubo: The old building occupied about half of this block in Ginza 3-chome where Matsuya Ginza stands now. The building has been extended since then, and today, Matsuya Ginza stretches from this block on Matsuya Dori to the end of Maronie Dori. The new façade makes it difficult to recognize the border.

左が昭和戦前期、右がバブル期の銀座銀座の地図。松屋が大きくなっているのがわかる。「東京時層地図 for iPad」（日本地図センター）を加工。 — Ginza before World War II on left, Ginza during the bubble period on right.
Matsuya has expanded during the two periods.
Based on ”Tokyo Jiso Chizu for iPad” (Japan Map Center)

Ogikubo: If you look carefully, you can notice that the space next to the escalator that we are on has a seven-story ceiling. This open ceiling space was created when the building was first built.

昭和31年に設置されたエスカレーターの脇は開店当初からの巨大な吹き抜け空間となっている — The space next to the escalators which were installed in 1956 (Showa 31)
has had an open ceiling since Matsuya Ginza’s opening.

Uino: Now that you have mentioned it, I am curious to know which part of the building was built in the Taisho period.
Ogikubo: I am quite sure you are curious. However, if we start exploring the department store, we will run out of time, so let us proceed to the rooftop.
Uino: Agreed. Let us explore the building on another occasion.
Ogikubo: Here we are on the roof. When you get out on the roof, there is a small area for resting and behind that…. Can you see it?

松屋銀座の屋上。奥にお堂が見える。 — On the rooftop of Matsuya Ginza. A small building can be seen in the distance.

Uino: Yes. Let us get closer.

Ryuko Fudo-son, sitting on the rooftop of Matsuya Ginza.

Ogikubo: This is not an Inari shrine. It does not even have a torii gate.
Uino: That is right. This not a shrine, but a Fudo temple. It is called Ryuko Fudo-son.
Ogikubo: Ryuko (流行), as in fashion?
Uino: No, it is spelled out “Ryu (龍)” as in dragon and “Ko (光)” as in light, but since the sound is the same as “ryuko” for fashion, it is often said that it is the perfect guardian god of design-conscious Matsuya Ginza, which has always been a source of new trends.
Ogikubo: There is an explanation of the Fudo-son’s roots in front of it. The Ryuko Fudo Myo-o Goson-zo was carved by a craftsperson during the Kamakura period and was brought here from Koya-san Ryuko-in in 1929 (Showa 4).
Uino: Although we were not able to dig deeper into its history, perhaps the President of the company back then had a close relationship with Koya-san. This is something I would like to investigate later.
Ogikubo: Let us first put our hands together in prayer. There is a panel hanging over the entrance that says “Fudo Myo-o”.

不動明王と書かれた扁額が。 — A tablet reading “Fudo Myo-o.”

Uino: This rooftop area is a place where people come to rest every day, but three times a year, a priest comes from Narita-san Fukagawa Fudo-do for the regular festival. We unfortunately cannot see the Fudo Myo-o, but the regular ceremonies are held in a very special atmosphere. We can feel how the Fudo deity has been worshiped generation after generation by the people of Matsuya and how it has protected its business.
Ogikubo: Around the building, we can see lanterns donated by Mutsumi-kai and Shoei-kai, presumably associations of companies who have long-established business relations with Matsuya. This also tells us how the Fudo temple has been cherished over a long time.
Uino: When they expanded the building in 1954 (Showa 39) they installed a Siddham character representing the Shitenno (Buddhist Four Heavenly Gods) on the ceiling of the first floor. It shows the wish of the long-established department store to protect the safety of its customers.

1回の天井に設置された四天王を表す梵字のひとつ。 — A Siddham character representing the Shitenno, installed on the ceiling of the first floor

Ogikubo: Retail stores, such as department stores, often have an Inari shrine for business prosperity and fire prevention, but now I see that a Fudoson can also be a guardian god.
Uino: This small temple that the Ryuko Fudo sits in is located right in the center of Ginza today. The Ofudo-sama unwaveringly guards Ginza from its center. With its powerfulness and reassurance, the Ryuko Fudo is the perfect guardian god of Ginza. Hence, we can enjoy strolling around Ginza and visiting its shrines in safety. I hope that more people will go up to the rooftop to visit the Ryuko Fudo-son and pray that it will continue to keep us safe in our everyday lives.

]]> Visit Ginza’s Inari Shrines Vol.14 Hoju Inari Shrine https://www.ginza.jp/en/visit-shrines/24338 Mon, 01 May 2023 01:00:36 +0000 https://www.ginza.jp/?post_type=visit_shrines&p=24338 Continue reading →]]>

Uino

Ogikubo-san, do you know what a “Jiguchi-andon” is?

Ogikubo

Ah, yes. In Senjujuku, there is an old family who made “ema” (votive wooden tablets with a picture of a horse) and “Jiguchi-andon” under the name Yoshidaya since the Edo period. Their jiguchi-andon are used to illuminate the streets during the local autumn festival in September. I had the opportunity of seeing real jiguchi-andon when I happened to visit Senju in September. I recall they were square lanterns with something written on it. Actually, I was guiding visitors then and I only briefly explained to them that they were jiguchi-andon. Therefore, I didn’t have the chance to read through anything or take pictures.

Uino

Then, let me show you some pictures. These are jiguchi-andon from Hoju Inari-san in Ginza.

Ogikubo: Oh. The ones I saw were like this too. The naïve puns written on them bear the Edo essence. “A smile on the face brings good globefish (fugu).” (Note: The original proverb is “A smile on the face brings good fortune (fuku).”) And there is a globefish really approaching in the drawing.
Uino: There is another one with a fox.

Ogikubo: The original verse is “Yoshitsune hasso-tobi,” right? Yoshitsune has been reread as “okitsune (fox)”!
Uino: This witty play on words is so representative of Japanese culture. Our destination today is the shrine in this picture, Hoju Inari Shrine.
Ogikubo: Hoju Inari – that is a new name to me.
Uino: Then let us go there. Its address is in Ginza 3-chome, but the closest station is Higashi-Ginza. It is behind the Kabukiza Theater.
Ogikubo: It is in front of Magazine House. I have visited Magazine House several times for work, but I never realized that there was a shrine there.

かつて木挽町だった場所にある宝珠稲荷神社。歌舞伎座の裏手あたり。 — Hoju Inari Shrine, located in what used to be Kobikicho,
around the back side of the Kabukicho Theater.

Uino: It is relatively recently that Hoju Inari Shrine joined Ginza’s autumn event, “Haccho Jinja Meguri.” The Haccho Jinja Meguri was launched as an event among the Inari Shrines in Ginza that are parishioners of Hie Shrine, so perhaps Hoju Inari Shrine, under the jurisdiction of Teppozu Inari Shrine, was considered to belong to a different area. As you know, it is beyond Showa Dori. By the way, there used to be a river running where Showa Dori is now, right?
Ogikubo: Actually, Showa Dori wasn’t built over a river. If you refer to an old map, this area used to be Kobikicho, not Ginza. I brought a map of Kyobashi-ku from 1941 (Showa 16) with me today. Sanjikken-bori acts as the borderline between Ginza 3-chome and Kobikicho 3-chome. Hoju Inari Shrine can also be found where it sits now.

「京橋区詳細図」（日本統制地図）より、木挽町三丁目あたり。三十間堀と昭和通りの両方が描かれている上に、宝珠稲荷も今の場所に — Around Kobikicho 3-chome
from “Kyobashi-ku Shosai-zu” (Nihon Tosei Chizu)
Both Sanjikken-bori and Showa Dori are included,
as well as Hoju Inari Shrine, in the same place as today.

Uino: Really! Oh that is right. Sanjikken-bori, where Sangenbashi Bridge used to be, ran one block away from Showa Dori on the Ginza side. It is clear on this map. I am so happy to see Hoju Inari Shrine on the map. It shows that the shrine was an important part of the local community.
Ogikubo: Showa Dori was built as a road to support the restoration after the Great Kanto Earthquake. With an underpass, it is deep and wide, so it looks as though it was built over a river. The area from Sanjikken-bori outwards used to be called Kobiki-cho. It was named Kobiki-cho because in the early Edo period when the Edo Palace was under construction, “kobiki” craftsman, or sawyers, lived in the area. Kobiki craftsman processed the lumber and cut it into wood pieces, right? This area faced the sea so the lumber must have been processed here and taken to Edo Palace. I wonder if Hoju Inari Shrine was the guardian god for these activities.
Uino: The history of the shrine says that its origin goes back to around 1615 when the Itakura family had the divided tutelary deity transferred to their mansion as a fire prevention god. But for craftsman working with wood, fire prevention must have been an important blessing/
Ogikubo: Let us look at an old map of Edo to find the Itakura family.
A map of Edo from 1666 has the name “Itakura” on it. And it is right around 3-chome. Is the current location of Hoju Inari Shrine just at the edge of the premises of the Itakura family’s mansion?

寛文六年（1666）の江戸絵図を見ると、木挽町三丁目のあたりに板倉の名が。ここにあったのだろうか（『[江戸図寛文六年刊]』国立国会図書館デジタルコレクションより） — On a map from the Edo period in 1666 (Kanbun 6),
the name “Itakura” can be found around Kobiki-cho 3-chome. This could have been the original location of the shrine.
(“Edo-u Kanbun 6-nen-kan” (from the National Diet Library Digital Collection)

Uino: I see. So, the shrine was originally located there.
Ogikubo: According to the shrine’s history, it was given to the Kamei family in 1760 and sold to the Okazaki family in the Taisho period. However, the shrine and land were later donated to the parishioners of Kobiki 3-chome. The adjacent land was acquired, and the shrine pavilion and office were constructed in 1950 (Showa 25). Although it is currently crowded in by buildings, if you take a close look, it has quite a grand pavilion. It bears the atmosphere of a shrine that has had a close relationship with the local community.

宝珠稲荷神社の社務所（向かって左）と鳥居。奥に社殿が見える — The shrine office (on left) and torii gate.
The shrine pavilion can be seen in the back.

Uino: The premises have a special atmosphere. Beautiful, yet powerful guardian foxes greet us in.
Ogikubo: You are right. They are very handsome. One holds a jewel and the other, a key. Inari shrines which represent business property often have guardian foxes clutching the keys to the warehouse in their teeth. This adds to the impression that the shrine has been long cherished as a guardian of the neighborhood.

宝珠稲荷神社の拝殿前に置かれた狐の像。スリムで精悍な顔立ちで片方は珠、片方は鍵を咥えている。 — Foxes sitting in front of the alter of Hoju Inari Shrine.
The foxes are slim and have a sharp look. One holds a jewel and the other, a key.

Uino: A festival that lets you feel the strong relationship between the shrine and its parishioners is held in May. Once every three years, there is a joint mikoshi (portable minature shrine) and horen (a mikoshi with a phoenix on the roof) parade with Teppozu Inari Shrine during its annual festival. The parishioners of each local community welcome the mikoshi and horen dressed in the same “hanten” short coats.
Ogikubo: Teppozu Inari Shrine is a very old shrine. It was founded during the Heian period and was worshiped as a guardian god of sea navigation in the Edo period because it was situated near the ocean. Located near the estuary of Sumida-gawa River, it is distant from Ginza.

八丁堀にある鉄砲洲稲荷神社 — Teppozu Inari Jinja in Hacchobori

Uino: The route of the annual festival parade goes by Hoju Inari Shrine. Everyone looks very handsome in their short coats!
Ogikubo: So the parade route starts at Teppozu Inari Shrine, goes westward and around the area that used to be Kobiki-cho. That is something to look forward to. The fact that it does not cross Sanjikken-bori lets us re-acknowledge the old border.
Since the shrine is located beyond Showa Dori, it seems distant from Chuo Dori in Ginza. However, I hope that more people will visit the powerful Inari shrine/
Uino: Many people who have joined the Hacchobori Jinja Meguri event have commented that Hoju Inari Shrine was a beautiful shrine. It is beautiful and yet powerful, or maybe “proud” from an Edo perspective. I feel the energy of an athlete in Hoju Inari Shrine. Let us visit and receive its energy!

]]> Visit Ginza’s Shrines　Vol.13 Hachikan Shrine https://www.ginza.jp/en/visit-shrines/22548 Wed, 01 Feb 2023 01:00:41 +0000 https://www.ginza.jp/?post_type=visit_shrines&p=22548 Continue reading →]]>

銀座八丁目の八官神社 — Hachikan Shrine in Ginza 8-chome

Ogikubo: So, this time we are visiting Ginza 8-chome. It is a very different neighborhood from the area spreading across Ginza 2-chome to Ginza 4-chome.
Uino: People often say that that 4-chome is Ginza in the daytime, and 8-chome wakes up at night. This area is very quiet during the day and bright at night. Passing by, I had always noticed that there was a small shrine. Gorgeously dressed girls with beautifully arranged hair often come to pray here at Hachikan Shrine.

飲食店の入ったビルの1Fにぽつんと佇む八官神社 — Hachikan Shrine sits on the first floor of a building housing various restaurants.

Ogikubo: Does the name Hachikan Shrine have anything to do with the fact that it is located in Ginza 8-chome?
Uino: This area used to be called Hachikan-cho. I wonder what Hachikan stands for.
Ogikubo: You would think that ”Hachikan” stood for the title of a government position or a group of eight government officials. However, according to my research, back in the early Edo period, land was given to a Dutch named Hachikuwan.
Uino: Who in the world is Hachikuwan?
Ogikubo: It almost sounds fictionary, but it could very well be true that the area was named after a person. William Adams was called Miura Anjin and the area where he lived camed to be called Anjin-cho. Jan Joosten’s Japanese name was Yayousu now we know the area by the name Yaesu.
Uino: Place names with a story are fascinating. Now coming back to Hachikan Shrine, its deity is an Inari god. It was originally built in the Genroku period (1688-1704).

少し高いところに鳥居があり、その奥にガラスに守られた祠が鎮座している — The torii gate stands a little above ground, with the shrine sitting in the back behind glass.

Ogikubo: Let us look for Hachikan Shrine in the Edo period. Small shrines are often not marked in Edo maps… but here it is. It can be found in an Edo Kiriezu from the late Edo period.

江戸時代末期（1853年）の江戸切絵図。八官町に穀豊稲荷としっかり描かれている（「京橋南芝口橋築地鉄砲洲辺絵図」（東京都立中央図書館蔵）を加工） — Edo Kiriezu from the late Edo period (1853). “Kokuho Inari” can be found in Hachikan-cho.
（adapted from ”Kyōbashiminami shibaguchibashi tsukiji teppōzuhen ezu” (Tokyo Metropolitan Central Library collection)）

Ogikubo: ”Kokuho Inari” is located in the center of Hachikan-cho. It is in the exact same place as today. But it was called Kokuho Inari back then.
Uino: Yes, it is an Inari shrine, but people decided to rename it Hachikan Shrine after Hachikan-cho. It also enshrines a princess.
Ogikubo: A princess?
Uino: The story goes that the Kagahime Inari was brought here by Heishiro Tanaka, a Nanushi (village administrator) from the late Edo or early Meiji period. The Kagahime Goddess had been worshiped for generations by his family. Hachikan-cho was home to many Geisha. I guess the girls who come to worship here are praying to Kagahime-sama.
Ogikubo: When you look at the Edo-ezu, Kaga-cho lies next to Hachikan-cho. Perhaps, the Kagahime Inari originally sat there. When the Edo city area was being developed, Kaga-cho was built by workers from Kaga-no-kuni (currently, Ishikawa Prefecture). Therefore, Kagahime Inari must have been brought from Kaga-no-kuni as well.
It is amazing that we can find Kokuho Inari Shrine on a map from the Edo period, sitting in the same place, just along Sotobori Dori. It has now been moved to the street in the back but it has remained in almost the same place in Ginza, where landowners change from time to time and new buildings are constantly being built.
Uino: What’s more, up until around twenty years ago, it faced Sotobori-dori and could be visited from the main street. And it was in the same building that is home to Hachikan Shrine today.
Ogikubo: Wow. That means it was facing the main street until the middle of the Heisei period. That is not so different from where it was located during the Edo period.
Uino: Let us take a stroll around. And let us find the same building on the other side. That must be it. The first floor has a two-story ceiling and that is where the shrine used to sit.

外堀通り沿いから。中央に写っている1-2Fが吹抜けになった細いビルが旧地だ — From Sotobori-dori. The shrine used to sit in the narrow building with a two-story first floor.

正面から望遠で。かつてこの1-2Fに八官神社が収まっていた — Zooming in from the front. Hachikan Shrine used to be in the first and second floors.

Ogikubo: Now that you have pointed it out, I can see that store has a first floor with a two-story ceiling. It’s fascinating to imagine that an entire shrine fit in the building. I am so familiar with Ginza that I am really surprised to know that there was shrine facing Sotobori-dori. Why was it moved to the back?
Uino: It was another case of redevelopment as we have heard so many times before in this series. The shrine originally had a resident Shinto priest, but when the building owner changed, the shrine lost its resident priest. Then it was moved to the backside of the building and the space facing the main street became a shop for rent.
Ogikubo: It is a pity. But it is because they preserved the shrine that we can trace its history. We should be thankful for that.
Uino: When it had a resident priest, the shrine’s office was located on the 8th floor but there was no longer anyone to take care of the shrine. Later, when the building had a new owner, he had the deity moved to an appropriate shrine and built a small branch shrine here.
Ogikubo: Where to was the deity moved?
Uino: To the well-known Shiba Dai-jingu. There, you can find a glamorous miniature shrine enshrining Hime Inari. Every June, there is a Grand Festival celebrating it.
Ogikubo: That is the large shrine close to Zojoji Temple. Although it looks very modern today, it is an ancient shrine built in the Heian period. Called Shinmeigu in the Edo period, it was a very busy shrine as it sold Tomikuji lottery.
Uino: Many people visit Hachikan Shrine to pray for good luck with the Takarakuji lottery. I guess that is where this superstition comes from.

芝大神宮。作りはモダンだが歴史は古い — Shiba Dai-jingu, modern shrine with a long history.

Ogikubo: I would have liked to visit it when it was still facing the main street. Anyway, I am very impressed that Houkoku Inari and Kagahime-sama have both managed to creatively survive in Ginza 8-chome, where there is so much competition for land. I truly respect the building owner who has maintained the shrine. If it had not been maintained, we would not have the opportunity to reflect on the local history
Uino: I felt some drama in Hachikan Shrine’s story of managing to stay in the area by moving around. I wish someone would write a novel about Ginza’s Inari shrines.

]]> Visit Ginza’s Inari Shrines　Vol.12 Mankin Ryujin Seiko Inari Shrine https://www.ginza.jp/en/visit-shrines/21553 Tue, 01 Nov 2022 01:00:53 +0000 https://www.ginza.jp/?post_type=visit_shrines&p=21553 Continue reading →]]>

現代の地図より、資生堂本社と資生堂パーラー。 — Shiseido Main Office and Shiseido Parlor on a contemporary map.

Ogikubo: This time we have come to Ginza 7-chome. Where is the shrine?
Uino: It is right here. In the Main Office of Shiseido!
Ogikubo: So this is the “Tokyo Ginza Shiseido.”
Uino: That phrase has a nostalgic ring.
Ogikubo: It must have been a TV commercial that I saw all the time when I was a child that said, “Tokyo Ginza Shiseido.” I remember the phrase as one word. And it just suddenly came back to me. I grew up in Nagoya and had no idea what Ginza was like. So, it was a rhythmical phrase that lingered in my mind. Does this mean that Shiseido has an Inari Shrine?
Uino: That is right. Today we will visit the Inari Shrine that guards Ginza Shiseido.

2013年竣工の資生堂本社。ここのお稲荷さまを訪問。 — Head Office of Shiseido built in 2013. A visit was made to the Inari Shrine at Shiseido.

Ogikubo: Why is the　Japan Photographic Society housed inside Shiseido Main Office?
Uino: Shinzo Fukuhara, the first CEO of the company had been educated in the fine arts in France and was also a photographer. After he returned to Japan, he managed Ginza Shiseido’s business, while also founding the “Photographic Art” magazine and taking part in the founding of the “Asahi Camera” magazine. You are well versed with photography, too.
Ogikubo: Yes, well versed..I used to have my works published in “Asahi Camera” and some of my photos have been published in full color. I was quite engaged with the magazine. However, I was ignorant not to know that Mr. Shinzo Fukuhara had been involved in its establishment. I truly regret that such a historical magazine as “Asahi Camera” had to be suspended in 2021. It has hurt my income too.
Uino: The founder of Shiseido, Arinobu, introduced medical and beauty products, and started a soda fountain that served soda and ice cream and would later become Shiseido Parlor. I suppose Shinzo, the third son of Arinobu, was granted the freedom to study the fine arts because his brothers were to succeed their father. However, due to a sudden change in circumstances, he became the successor to the company.
Ogikubo: I guess it is thanks to Shinzo Fukuhara that Shiseido has created such artistic ads that are even remembered by a boy who obviously was not the intended target.
Uino: Now let us go into the main story. It is not the first time in this series to learn that a major merchant was so religious that that they took very good care of the household god.
Ogikubo: Yes. This Inari deity has a similar background, right?
Uino: This deity is generally known as “Seiko Inari,” or the Inari for success, but its formal name is “Mankin Konryu Seiko Inari.”
Ogikubo: It is quite an impressive name, isn’t it? It is a combination of “Mankin Ryujin” (dragon god of wealth) and “Seiko Inari” (Inari deity for success). The Seiko Inari was invited here from Toyokawa Inari Shrine by Shinzo Fukuhara in 1954 (Showa 2). Toyokawa Inari is another name for Myogenji Temple in Aichi Prefecture that worships the Dakiniten. The Mankin Ryujin was jointly enshrined from Munakata Taisha, a very old shrine in Fukuoka City that worships the three Munakata goddesses. Ichikishimahime, sitting in Hetsumiya, is a famous water goddess that is also worshiped at Itsukushima Shrine as a festive god. I believe the fact that they worship a goddess perfectly fits the image of Shiseido.
Household gods are often found on the rooftop, I suppose you that it is the same here.
Uino: Yes. It sits on the rooftop of the Shiseido Main Office building.
Ogikubo: Anyone can pay a visit to a deity on the rooftop of a department store, but not everyone can visit one here on the Head Office of Shiseido.
Uino: Yes. It is usually a secret deity that does not accept any visitors. Only those working here, including employees can visit.
Ogikubo: That is what I had guessed.
Uino: However, I acquired special permission this time for the article.
Ogikubo: Thank you. Let us go.
Uino: Then, let us take the elevator to the rooftop.
Ogikubo: There was a board introducing the rooftop just when we got off the elevator. It is called “Shiseido’s Garden” and is made of three areas: “Guardian Forest,” “Tree Shades for Dialogue” “Pond of Knowledge.” It is more like a rooftop garden.

エレベーターホールにある「資生の庭」の解説。これを読むと庭園のコンセプトがよくわかる。 — The Guide to “Shiseido’s Garden” in the elevator hall.
Visitors can gain a clear idea of the concept of the garden.

Uino: Yes. Let us have a look at the garden before we visit the shrine. We can go to the “Pond of Knowledge” and through the “Tree Shades for Dialogue.” Then we will arrive at the “Pond of Knowledge.” Then we can visit the shrine.
Ogikubo: So the pond in the back is the “Pond of Knowledge.”
Uino: The pond is a part of the biotope, where medical plants that are familiar cosmetic ingredients are grown. Cosmetics are made from good quality water and plants ingredients. The garden is like an encyclopedia that presents “Shiseido” itself and its theme: “essence of life.”

「知見の水辺」で栽培されている化粧品の原材料となるハーブた — The herbs grown near the “Pond of Knowledge” are cosmetics ingredients.

Uino: The “Tree Shades for Dialogue” stretch out to the Inari Shrine. Do you see those shrubs planted around the shrine?

社員がテーブルでくつろげる「語らいの木陰」 — The “Tree Shades of Dialogue,” where employees can sit at the table to take a break.

Ogikubo: Plants are not my expertise. Oh, but I see. There is just one flower remaining. They are camellias, right?

資生堂といえば椿。ひとつだけ待っていてくれました。 — Camellias are they symbol of Shiseido. One flower awaited our visit.

Uino: Yes. The “Hanatsubaki (Japanese Camellia)” is the symbol of Shiseido. Various types of camellias are planted here. They are beautiful when they are all in bloom.
Ogikubo: I would imagine that to be a fascinating sight. Now, let us visit the shrine.

こじんまりとしながら椿に囲まれた「満金龍神成功稲荷」。普段は外部の人ははいれません。 — Mankin Ryujin Seiko Inari is a small shrine surrounded by camellias.
It is usually closed to the public.

Uino: It almost looks like the trees are followers of this Inari Shrine.
Ogikubo: The name “Mankin Ryujin Seiko Inari” is so powerful that I am sure so many people would want to visit it. It is a pity that it is not open to the public.
Uino: That is not to be worried about. When Ginza holds its annual “Haccho Jinja Meguri” event, an Otabisho (temporary shrine) is set up in the lobby of Shiseido Main Office so that all anyone can come it to visit it.
Ogikubo: So, anyone can walk into the lobby of Shiseido Main Office during the event. The way camellias are used in the floor and other details of the building is inspiring. I would highly recommend the visit to those interested in the building design, too.

「八丁神社巡り」のときは本社ロビー壁際の少し凹んだところに御旅所が設置される。 — During the “Haccho Jinja Meguri” event, the Otabisho (temporary shrine) is set up along the concave wall.

Ogikubo: By the way, the view from this building is quite nice. To the sourtheast, we can see the Shiseido Parlor Ginza Main Store. We can easily find it because of its unique color.

資生堂本社の屋上庭園から見える「資生堂パーラー銀座本店」のビル。 — The Shiseido Parlor Ginza Main Store building viewed from the rooftop garden of Shiseido Main Office.

Uino: Isn’t it? That building is called the “Tokyo Ginza Shiseido Building.” Have you ever been there?
Ogikubo: A long time ago – back in the 1990s – when I used to go around dining at different long-established restaurants, I had lunch there. I was very nervous being in a very high-end restaurant, but I also remember feeling very relaxed and enjoying the excellent food. That is what Shiseido is all about. If you take a look at a map of Kyobashi-ku from 1941 (Showa 16), it says “Shiseido.” So, they have been there all the time.

昭和16年の「京橋区詳細図」より。資生堂パーラーの一に「資生堂」と書いてある — From “Kyobashi-ku Shosaizu,” compiled in 1941 (Showa 16). It says “Shiseido” where Shiseido Parlor stands now.

Uino: With cosmetics and a parlor, they opened up Ginza’s modern culture. There is so much to know about Ginza.
Ogikubo: From Civilization and Enlightenment in the Meiji period to present, Ginza has already been running in the forefront. However, not everything is constantly renewed. Some things remain, gradually creating traditions. These layers of time compose the beauty of Ginza. That is why it is so important to keep records and photos of its history.

]]> Visit Ginza’s Shrines Vol. 11 Komparu Inari https://www.ginza.jp/en/visit-shrines/20369 Mon, 01 Aug 2022 01:00:12 +0000 https://www.ginza.jp/?post_type=visit_shrines&p=20369 Continue reading →]]>

銀座八丁目の新橋会館屋上に「金春稲荷」は鎮座している — The Komparu Inari Shrine sits on the rooftop of Shimbashi Kaikan in Ginza 8-chome

Ogikubo: This time we are visiting Ginza 8-chome, the southernmost area of Ginza. If we cross the street, we will find ourselves in Shimbashi.
Uino: The area is named after a bridge that really used to exist here.
Ogikubo: Yes, Shimbashi Bridge hung over Sanjukken-bori, which used to run right under the Shuto Expressway and was completely reclaimed. I had imagined the area would be more like Shimbashi, but it bears Ginza’s atmosphere.
Uino: Yes. This is Ginza with its bright neon lights, as we know it from novels and TV dramas.
Ogikubo: Where is the Inari shrine? There is no shrine in sight.
Uino: Actually, the Inari shrine that we are going to visit today sits on the rooftop of Shimbashi Kaikan, which houses the Tokyo Shimbashi Kumiai. It is closed to the public. It is called Komparu Inari.

見番通りと花椿通りの角にある新橋会館。 — Shimbashi Kaikan, standing on the corner of Kenban-dori and Hanatsubaki-dori

Ogikubo: If I remember correctly, there is a public bath called Komparu-yu. Isn’t Komparu the name of a Noh school?
Uino: Yes. It comes from the Noh Komparu-ryu (Komapru school). Komparu-ryu originated in the “Enmani-za,” which served Kofuku-ji Temple and Kasugataisha Shrine in Nara. Noh is a performing art with one of the longest histories in the world and Komparu-ryu is one of the older schools. An even now, they offer Noh performances at the Takigi Noh (bonfire Noh) at Kofuku-ji and the On-matsuri festival at the Kasuga Wakamiya Shrine.
Ogikubo: So the name bears a lot of history. What brought the Komparu name to Ginza?
Uino: Noh had been favored by Hideyoshi Toyotomi and in the Edo period it was allocated Chigyo-chi (territory) in the area which is Ginza today. Groups of Noh performers were hired directly by the Bakufu as state companies. Komparu was one of them and they were based in what is Ginza 8-chome today (then Sanno-cho).
Ogikubo: So that is why their name remains in Komparu-dori and Komaparu-yu. You wonder why when you are not familiar with the background. Then, let us check the map as we always do. First, I have the “Edo Kirie-zu” from the end of the Edo period.

幕末の江戸切絵図（国立国会図書館デジタルコレクション）より。銀座八丁目に「金春屋敷」が描かれている。 — The “Edo Kirie-zu” (National Library Digital Collection) from the end of the Edo period.
”Komparu Yashiki” is marked in the Ginza 8-chome area.

Uino: There it is. Is the street running between Komparu Yashiki and Chuo-dori, today’s Komparu-dori?
Ogikubo: That is right. Komparu-dori does not yet appear on the map in the early Edo period. Instead, it says “Shichiro Komparu.” This tell us that the area was the property of the Komparu family from the early Edo period. Ieyasu Tokugawa must have brought them to Edo from Kyoto in times when Noh was a popular pastime among samurai.

元和2年（1616年）のものといわれる「武州江戸庄図」。今春七郎（昔は「今春」と書いたこともあったよう）と書かれてます。（国立国会図書館デジタルコレクション）より。 — ”Bushu Edo Shozu,” presumably produced in 1616 (Genwa 2).
“Shichiro Komparu” is marked on the map.
(from the National Library Digital Collection)

Uino: Shall we go Komparu-dori?
Ogikubo: That is a good idea. I wonder if we can find anything from the Edo period. I recall seeing old bricks and an old wooden barrel in front of a store called Noble Pearl. It says the wooden barrel was a part of waterpipes during the Edo period. The bricks are from the early Meiji period.

江戸時代に使われていた木の水道管（樋）。 — Wooden waterpipes from the Edo period.

発掘された明治時代の煉瓦の一部が金春通り沿いに残されている。 — Some of the bricks discovered from the Meiji period
continue to sit on Komparu-dori.

Uino: It seems some of what was excavated during construction works in Ginza 8-chome were moved here. Some of the bricks can still be seen in the store, so let’s have a look. They have lived and run a business in Ginza since 1947 (Showa 22) and are actively engaged in local activities.

ノーブルパールの店内にて。お店の一部に明治時代のレンガが上手にあしらわれてるのがすごくおしゃれ。手前にある写真パネルは、レンガ塀発掘時の様子。このときの煉瓦ですよと教えていただいた。 — Inside Noble Pearl.
They chicly use the bricks from the Meiji period as a part of their interior decorations.
The photo panels in the front show the how the brick wall was unearthed.
We were told that the bricks came from the excavation.

Ogikubo: It is so nice that these bricks are locally preserved. I would have loved to see Ginza made with these bricks. So, what happened to Komparu Inari shrine?
Uino: There is more history to that story. After the Komparu family moved out in the late Edo period, in 1780, this area became an entertainment zone and the Geisha in the area came to be called “Komparu Geisha.” Then teahouses and Okiya lodging houses were built after the Komparu estate.
Ogikubo: This area is close to Shimbashi Station, Japan’s first railway station. Close to the railway and to the government offices, politicians must have gathered night after night. Back then it was not rare for famous politicians to get married with their favorite geisha.
Uino: A Kenban (geisha union) was also established. That is why the street behind Komparu-dori is called Kenban-dori. Shimbashi Kaikan, where the Shimbashi geisha rehearse stands on Kenban-dori.
Ogikubo: So, although we call them Shimbashi Geisha, they are based in Ginza 8-chome. And what is their relationship with Komparu Inari shrine? The shrine was the guardian god of the Komparu family estate and used to be located on Komparu-dori. However, it is no longer here.
Uino: It currently sits on the rooftop of Shimbashi Kaikan, which houses the rehearsal facilities of the Tokyo Shimbashi Kumiai.
Ogikubo
: So, Noh, a traditional Japanese art from medieval times has gotten itself somehow connected with geisha?
Uino: I guess you could say that. Do you not find it fascinating that the family estate guardian of a Noh head family sits on the rooftop of the building housing the Kenban, or the geisha agency that manages and dispatches geisha, and where the geisha practice dancing and traditional Japanese music? The shrine is closed to the public but the geisha who come to the building for rehearsals pay their respect to it. And guess what?
Ogikubo: What?
Uino: This time we have special permission to take pictures for the “Visit Ginza’s Inari Shrines” article. Therefore, let us pay our respect before we take pictures.
Ogikubo: Thank you. Let us go. It is a small but picturesque shrine.

新橋会館屋上に祀られている金春稲荷。 — Kompira Inari Shrine on the rooftop of Shimbashi Kaikan

さりげなく屋根が。カラスが賽銭箱に石を入れていくこともあったそうです。 — There is a small roof over it.
There were times when crows dropped stones into the offertory box.

Ogikubo: So the relationship between Ginza and Komparu-ryu only remains in the Inari shrine itself and its name?
Uino: Actually, the connection remains not only in the name. People who have long lived in this area, which was once a cultural mecca, are very passionate about keeping or restoring old images of the area. With this passion and the cooperation of Komparu Enmani-kai, the “Nohgaku Komparu Matsuri” festival is held on Komparu-dori every year. A special stage is set up for offeratory performances unique to the Komparu-ryu. During the festival, an Otabisho (temporary shrine) is installed in the store window of Noble Pearl and the deity of Komparu Inari Shrine sits there for a limited time. This allows people to offer prayers to a deity that they usually have no access to.
Ogikubo: That is a wonderful effort! We have very limited opportunities to see Noh performances so it would be great to visit Ginza for the festival.
Uino: Performing arts originated as offerings to the gods. What a strong message that the same shrine has been a guardian of performing arts, which have evolved with the times, from the Edo period up to now! I am sure that Komparu Inari Shrine will continue to guard those who are making great efforts every day to preserve culture and traditions.

]]> Visit Ginza’s Shrine Vol. 10 Mimeguri Shrine and Shusse Jizoson on the roof of Mitsukoshi Department Store https://www.ginza.jp/en/visit-shrines/19524 Sun, 01 May 2022 01:00:23 +0000 https://www.ginza.jp/?post_type=visit_shrines&p=19524 Continue reading →]]>

銀座四丁目交差点にある銀座三越。この時勢、ライオン像も三越特製マスクをしてました。 — Ginza Mitsukoshi, standing on the Ginza 4-chome intersection.
Reflecting the times, the lion statue was also wearing a mask especially made by Mitsukoshi.

Ogikubo: We have arrived at the Ginza 4-chome intersection – the heart of Ginza that first comes to everyone’s mind when they think of Ginza..
Uino: Yes, this spot is symbolic of Ginza. And Ginza Mitsukoshi is Ginza 4-chome’s landmark. It is also the very place we are going to visit today.
Ogikubo: So, our destination is the rooftop of the department store. I have come here so many times in the past and I had never realized that it says “Ginza Shusse Jizoson” in the entrance. Do they worship a Jizo (Ksitigarbha) here?

何気なく正面入口に「銀座出世地蔵尊」の案内が。「築地三十間堀より出世した」そうな。 — “Ginza Shusse Jizo” in the entrance of Ginza Mitsukoshi.
Legends say that it was promoted (“shusse”) from Tsukiji Sanjusangenbori.

Uino: That’s right.
Ogikubo: Usually, Jizo statues stand on intersections or in the entrance of a village. Indeed, this intersection is old, but Jizo statues are not often found on the rooftop.
Uino: The Jizo (Ksitigarbha) is usually known as the form of Buddha that is caring and saves children on the riverbank of the Sanzu-no-kawa River between this world and afterlife. But in this case, a rather serious word “shusse (promotion)” is associated with “Jizo.” Isn’t it bewildering?
Ogikubo: We are familiar with the Jizo form of Buddha in our daily lives and therefore, people have made various wishes in accordance with the times or local circumstance, believing the Jizo would answer their prayers. Hence, some Jizo statues have challenged with many unique experiences – being covered in salt, powdered in white, or tied up with rope, for example. One shocking story is the one about the “Gankake Jizo” in Nakano-ku. There are two Jizo statues – one tall and one small – standing side by side. It is said that if a person with a wish comes to the Jizo statues in white costume and pushes the smaller statue down as he/she makes his/her wish, the larger Jizo statue will grant the wish in the hope of saving the smaller statue. It was customary return when the wish came true to say thanks and pull the smaller Jizo statue up. Isn’t that shocking?
Uino: That is one appalling system – taking advantage of the friendship between two Jizo statues to grant one’s wish. It is human arrogance.
Ogikubo: And now as we chat, we have arrived at the rooftop. The rooftops of department stores have evolved from miniature amusement parks where children used to play in the Showa period to a place to relax.

銀座三越の屋上「テラスガーデン」。この日はあいにくの雨だったけど、奥に境内が見える。 — ”Terrace Garden” on the rooftop of Ginza Mitsukoshi
Unfortunately, it was a rainy day, but the shrine could be seen in the distance.

Uino: The Jizo statues and Mimeguri Jinja can be found in the back. It is well known that Mimeguri Shrine is worshiped by Mitsukoshi Department Store.

一番奥に鎮座するのが三囲神社。中央が地蔵堂。そして大きな地蔵が本尊の分身。 — Mimeguri Jinja is located in the very back. The Jizodo is in the middle. The large Jizo statue is the alter ego of the principal image.

Ogikubo: That is right. Mimeguri Jinja is an Inari shrine; and therefore, this visit fully matches the concept of “Visit Ginza’s Inari Shrines” series. By the way, the name is “Mimeguri Jinja.” At first, you wonder if it reads, “Mitsu Jinja” or “Mii Jinja,” but the right way to read it is “Mimeguri”.
Uino: What is the story behind Mimeguri Jinja?
Ogikubo: It was located in Mukojima. It was an old Inari Shrine located on the other side of Sumidagawa River, looking from Matsuchi-yama. It often appears in Ukiyoe prints from the Edo period.
Uino: The name resembles “Mitsui” but it has a close relation with Mitsukoshi?
Ogikubo: Well, Mitsukoshi was originally Mitsui Echigoya. But the shrine itself is older. It is said to have been built in the Heian period. The story goes that when a Buddhist priest from Mii-dera Shrine located in Oumi renovated the shrine during the Muromachi period, a white fox walked around the image of an old man on a white fox three times and disappeared. This is where the name, “Mimeguri (three rounds) Inari” comes from. At this point, the shrine had no relation with the Mitsui family. However, when the Mitsui family extended its business to Edo city during the Edo period, they found that the name Mimeguri sounded similar to Mitsui and that the character for “meguri: 囲” looked as if it protected the Mitsui family. Hence, they decided to make the shrine the guardian of the Mitsui family during the Kyoho years of the mid-Edo period.
Uino: That is quite interesting. So the name of the shrine was first.
Ogikubo: On the premises, you can find the rare triangular Torii gate moved from the Mitsui family house and the lion statues that used to stand in front of the Ikebukuro Mitsukoshi department store before it closed. The adorable fox with droopy eyes offered by the Mitsui Echigoya during the Edo period is another must-see.

三井邸から移したという三角石鳥居。中央に井戸がある。 — The triangular Torii gate brought from the Mitsui family house. A well sits in the center.

池袋三越前に鎮座していたライオン像も今は狛ライオン？として三囲神社を守っている。 — The lion statues that used to sit in front of Ikebukuro Mitsukoshi
now guard Mimeguri Shrine as guardian lions.

江戸時代からこの表情で人々をなごませてきたきつね。越後屋が奉納したものだそう。 — Many people have been comforted by the fox’s expression. It is said that it was an offering from Echigoya.

Uino: They look like those animal friends that appear in fairy tales. They are almost too cute to be servants of a guardian shrine of a large business. So, since it is the guardian god of the Mitsui family, there is a shrine at Mitsukoshi, too.
Ogikubo: Yes, but I am also curious about the Jizo statue standing beside Mimeguri Shrine. This is the Shusse Jizo.
Uino: The large Jizo statue on the left was made based on the principal image, which is enshrined in the back of the alter here.

出世地蔵尊。地蔵尊自体は右の地蔵堂に納められている。 — Shusse Jizoson. The Jizoson is enshrined in the Jizo-do (Jizo Hall) on the right.

Ogikubo: It strikes me that the Jizo statue is larger than the hall beside it in which the principal image is enshrined. It has a unique expression. Is it like a replica – an enlarged copy?
Uino: Rather than being a replica, it seems to be more like an alter ego of the principle image. The old Buddhist statue has been exposed to dirt and water across many years. Moreover, Ginza has experienced the Great Kanto Earthquake and air raids; and therefore, the principal image must have been lost or damaged along the way. Hence, they must have newly carved the image out of stone.
Ogikubo: What is the origin of this Jizo statue? Was it standing in the intersection of Ginza 4-chome?
Uino: It seems to have first appeared from Sanjikkenbori during the Meiji period when they were conducting bank protection works. The statue was placed on open land in Ginza 4-chome. They say that festivals were also held around it up to the Great Kanto Earthquake.
Ogikubo: The Meiji period… Look, you can find “Shusse Jizo” marked on tis map from the late Meiji period. It must have been worshiped by a wide range of people for its name to be written out on a map.

「時層地図 for iPad」（日本地図センター）より。上が明治時代終わり頃の、下がバブル期の地図。白い○が銀座四丁目の交差点。四角く囲ったところに出世地蔵と書いてある。 — From “Jiso-chizu (time-layered map) for iPad” (Japan Map Center)
The map on the top is from the late Meiji period. The bottom map is from the time of the bubble economy. The Ginza 4-chome intersection is marked with a white circle.
In the white box, it says “Shusse Jizo”.

You are right.: Right next to Sanjusangebori, along Harumi-dori, it says “Shusse Jizo”.
Ogikubo: According to the history of the Shusse Jizoson, they placed it on the rooftop of Ginza Mitsukoshi in 1968 (Showa 43) when it was fully renovated. It is often said that the idea of a Jizo statue that had long been standing by the road climbed up to the rooftop of a major department store brought people to call it “Shusse Jizo,” but now I see that it has been known by that name from farther back.
Uino: If it was called “Shusse Jizo” before it “climbed” up to the rooftop… that is one mystery. At least we know that it brings very strong luck.
Ogikubo: Chuo-ku’s website introduces an episode that it is so called because it was dug out of the moat and came out into the world.
Uino: So it originally appeared from underground, and then from the ground it was promoted to the rooftop. Come to think of it, it also says at the entrance of Mitsukoshi Department Store that it “advanced from Tsukiji Sanjikkennbori.”
Ogikubo: That must be the reason why the larger alter ego standing beside the Jizodo is smiling.

笑顔が印象的なお地蔵さま。 — A Jizo with an unforgettable smile.

Uino: That lucky smile, along with the wide sky and green lawn is encouraging. It gives you the feeling that your fortune will get increasingly better. But there is an idea unique to Japan that the Jizo Bosatsu is actually the Great King Yenma. In a way, both the Jizo Bosatsu and Great King Yenma seem to carefully observe us before saving or judging us.
Ogikubo: In the past, the roadside and village entrances were ideal places to observe and guard people. In that sense, the rooftop may be just the right place to oversee the people of Ginza today.
Uino: Even this gentle Shusse Jizo may get angry if we take too much advantage of its smile.
Ogikubo/Uino: Let us join ours hands in prayer once again.

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